Posh Saturday Menu January 2013

Mini-negroni in iitala glass

Mini-negroni in iitala glass
Mini-negroni in iitala glass
Antipasti with Radikon's orange wine
Antipasti with Radikon’s orange wine

Antipasto platter: marinated artichokes, marinated mushrooms, bresaola, prosciutto cotto, all from Camisa. Artisanal semolina bread studded with raisins and caraway seeds, Broadway Market.

First course: riso alla pilota with bacon and free-range pork loin from farmers stall in Broadway Market

Second course: tuna steak (Fin & Flounder in Broadway Market), marinated in ginger, garlic, soy, mirin, and white-wine vinegar, seared and served rare

Vegetable: fennel braised with garlic, anchovies, capers, and a few left-over bits of puntarella (added a not-entirely-welcome bitterness however, would leave it out next time!)

Dessert: mostarda di Cremona with pecorino romano, both from Camisa, but the mustard has lost most of it’s spiciness…nothing like Padova or Mantova I’m afraid.

Mantovan miller's rice
Mantovan miller’s rice

Wines:

Stanislao Radikon’s ribolla gialla 2006 from Oslavia in Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. An orange (ie white that has had skin contact) wine, my current obsession: pretty extraordinary – smelt and tasted awful on opening, but after 1.5 hours in the decanter, it calmed down. A deep cloudy red-orange, more so than the Dario Princic, with a musty mildewy rotten smell, but nothing of that in the taste. It wasn’t very fruity at all, but quite tannic, with a residual sweetness at the finish. Very much of a “conceptual” wine, an exercise in the outer limits of what wine can be (particularly a white wine), not obvious it combines that well with food, rather something to drink and think about. Very good, but I probably prefer the Princic??

Cascina ‘Tavijn’s ruche di castagnoler monferatto 2011 from Asti in Piemonte. A red made from the ruche grape, extraordinary smell – like perfume, very definitely not fruit, perhaps a little like makeup, with some mustiness. Very smooth, with modest mouthfeel. Long but slightly bitter finish, and seemed to lose some flavour with the food we have. Again, lovely to drink on its own, or with a little pecorino; great as an example of a lesser-known grape from a well-known zone.