Genoa

Da Maria: mad little osteria, more like a canteen, with traditional food, simply and economically prepared. Dinner for two, €26, with 2 starters & mains & wine. More for the ambience (shared tables mostly), broad swathe of people – rich & poor, than the food.

A charger purported to hold the head of John the Baptist, from the excellent Diocesian collection at San Lorenzo Cathedral.

A little place, near the Caffe Degli Specchi, on one of Vico Vegeti’s corners – very good food, scrawled menu. Very good ravioli stuffed with meat and sauce made from reduced beef stock; Cima de Genovese, a veal roll stuffed with sausage, eggs, etc., and sliced like a cake

Caffe Degli Specchi: old school cafe, slightly pricey at aperitivo, lots of mirrors hence the name. Good, if rather gin-heavy, Negronis. Posh patrons getting soused on martinis etc.

Stoccafisso (stockfish, or wind-dried fish from Norway usually, similar to baccala without the salt) with potatoes and tomatoes. — Stoccafisso (stockfish, or wind-dried fish, often hake, from Norway usually, similar to baccala but without the salt) with potatoes and tomatoes.

Paninotecas (most famous is Gran Ristoro) on the stretch of covered walkway near Via di Sottoripa (so just parallel to the port / expressway). Superb meats (porchetta, mortadella, prosciutto cotto with herbs, anchovies both marinated and oil-preserved), marinated veg, etc.

Ristorante Montallegro: next to the Righi (final) stop on the Funicular that leaves Largo Zecca, near the end of V Lomellini. Great view. Particularly liked cappon magro, ravioli stuffed with meat and a sauce of reduced veal stock (the broth for the boiled veal they serve), aforementioned boiled veal. Excellent wines and service.

DSCF1809 — View from Montallegro’s terrace

Vegia Zena: an anonymous trattoria behind the port, which we found using Fred Plotkin’s (excellent!) Italy for the Gourmet Traveller.

Minestrone (unlike the American etc version, this has pesto in it), and trofie with pesto

In Camogli, a little place almost at the castle end of the promenade, that purports to represent the fishermen’s cooperative, and sells what they have caught that day. Looks genuine – fritto misto was just the right size, with small prawns, moscardini tentacles, little clams or crabs (not sure), anchovies, and splendid tiny red mullets. Pasta con pesce spada e melanzane turned out to be bits of prawn, moscardini, etc., an oversight. One of the only veg plates in Genova – chick peas with bietole – splendid.

Also in Camogli, a foccaccia place right behind above fish.

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