Da Maria: mad little osteria, more like a canteen, with traditional food, simply and economically prepared. Dinner for two, €26, with 2 starters & mains & wine. More for the ambience (shared tables mostly), broad swathe of people – rich & poor, than the food.
A little place, near the Caffe Degli Specchi, on one of Vico Vegeti’s corners – very good food, scrawled menu. Very good ravioli stuffed with meat and sauce made from reduced beef stock; Cima de Genovese, a veal roll stuffed with sausage, eggs, etc., and sliced like a cake
Caffe Degli Specchi: old school cafe, slightly pricey at aperitivo, lots of mirrors hence the name. Good, if rather gin-heavy, Negronis. Posh patrons getting soused on martinis etc.
Paninotecas (most famous is Gran Ristoro) on the stretch of covered walkway near Via di Sottoripa (so just parallel to the port / expressway). Superb meats (porchetta, mortadella, prosciutto cotto with herbs, anchovies both marinated and oil-preserved), marinated veg, etc.
Ristorante Montallegro: next to the Righi (final) stop on the Funicular that leaves Largo Zecca, near the end of V Lomellini. Great view. Particularly liked cappon magro, ravioli stuffed with meat and a sauce of reduced veal stock (the broth for the boiled veal they serve), aforementioned boiled veal. Excellent wines and service.
Vegia Zena: an anonymous trattoria behind the port, which we found using Fred Plotkin’s (excellent!) Italy for the Gourmet Traveller.
In Camogli, a little place almost at the castle end of the promenade, that purports to represent the fishermen’s cooperative, and sells what they have caught that day. Looks genuine – fritto misto was just the right size, with small prawns, moscardini tentacles, little clams or crabs (not sure), anchovies, and splendid tiny red mullets. Pasta con pesce spada e melanzane turned out to be bits of prawn, moscardini, etc., an oversight. One of the only veg plates in Genova – chick peas with bietole – splendid.
Also in Camogli, a foccaccia place right behind above fish.
